Many NJ residents have probably crossed the river to Philly for day trips. Here's how to spend a weekend in the City of Brotherly Love and really soak it all in.
By Nicole Pensiero
It was the Philadelphia Flower Show that planted the idea - no pun intended - of extending what would have been a four-hour visit to the City of Brotherly Love into a full-fledged weekend getaway. And why not? For all the hundreds of times I've zipped across the river from South Jersey to Philly for a concert, sporting event, or shopping, I could probably count on one hand the number of nights I'd actually spent at a Center City hotel.
A weekend-long visit provided the perfect opportunity to explore some culture happenings, enjoy diverse cuisine, and even take a side trip to nearby Valley Forge National Historical Park. And it ended up that at Philadelphia seemed a completely new place to me with the luxury of time to savor its many offerings.
For our hotel stay, we couldn't have made a better choice than the Loews, located inside the iconic art-deco PSFS Building at 12th and Market streets. This 36-floor, nearly-600 room property, manages to be both luxurious and affordable, appealing to everyone from families to business travelers. From its chic lobby bar to the Bank & Bourbon American-themed restaurant - perfect for a power-breakfast, we found - Loews had everything we wanted, including an indoor pool.
Located only two blocks from the Convention Center (home of the Flower Show, which next year will run from March 11-19) and the popular Reading Terminal Market, it also proved an ideal "home base" for exploring the heart of Center City by foot.
First stop: Reading Terminal Market, established in 1893 as a train stop, and now home to 80 vendors, selling virtually every type of cuisine - from Pennsylvania Dutch pretzels to Asian food to Philly cheesesteaks. My personal favorite is the Down Home Diner, which is pretty much what the name implies: a place to go for quick, good home-cooked meals. You can also find plenty of gift-type stores scattered about Reading Terminal, with everything from chocolates to books to cookware. Depending on the time of day, Reading Terminal Market can be a crush of humanity or very maneuverable - but it's always a fun visit. I especially liked being able to zip back and forth from there to our hotel in less than five minutes.
Despite my minimal interest in the Revolutionary War, I knew no weekend visit to Philly would be complete without seeing the places that made it "The Cradle of Independence." I hadn't seen the Liberty Bell up close in probably 20 years - ditto, nearby Independence Hall - so I was overdue for a visit. The Liberty Bell exhibit was especially impressive, tracing not only the bell's origins, but also its enduring symbolic power through the decades and around the world.
We happened to stay in Philadelphia during a Barnes Foundation's First Friday event - held the first Friday of each month from 6 to 9 p.m., so we stopped by to enjoy cocktails, live music, and after-hours access to the world-famous collection and special exhibits.
Established in 1922, the Barnes Foundation was created by Dr. Albert C. Barnes, to promote appreciation of the fine arts. Barnes amassed one of the world's most important holdings of post-impressionist and early modern paintings, including famed works by Renoir, Monet, Picasso, and Matisse. Presented as "ensembles," these paintings were housed in a small museum in Merion, Pa., for decades before moving to a beautiful new setting on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway in 2012. It's a wonderful museum to explore for a few hours, and its small restaurant will soon transition to become part of the Stephen Starr organization.
Our second full day got started with a visit to beyond the city's borders, to nearby Valley Forge National Historical Park, where George Washington and the Continental Army hunkered down for one devastating winter in 1777-78. Still a sprawling and beautiful location, we happened upon some Revolutionary War re-enactors, which added to the historical feel of the place. We especially enjoyed a stop at the nearby Washington Memorial Chapel, which is both a monument to General George Washington and an active Episcopal parish. Completed in 1917, this charming 125-seat church -- which receives no funding from the Park Service -- depicts both religious and American historical figures, with Washington's life shown in great detail on its colorful stained glass windows.
Valley Forge National Park, a short drive from Center City Philadelphia, is a popular year-round draw for visitors. Revolutionary War re-enactors are often found there. (Photo by Nicole Pensiero)Following our visit to Valley Forge, we enjoyed a hearty lunch at the Black Powder Tavern in Wayne. The 1746 building that houses the tavern has an illustrious history, having served as a covert rendezvous place for George Washington, Marquis de Lafayette and other leaders of the American Revolution. The menu has plenty of "comfort food" choices, ranging from massive burgers to chicken pot pie and its special Cheesy Devils on Horseback -- dates stuffed with gorgonzola cheese and wrapped in bacon.
Our final sightseeing adventure of the weekend was one my friend Karen picked: the Tarantulas exhibit at the Academy of Natural Sciences back downtown. Billed as Tarantulas - Live & Up Close, this creepy-crawly collection, she hoped, would help her overcome her fear of spiders. I'm not sure it succeeded in that task, but it certainly was fascinating. And seeing tarantulas of all sizes and colors "up close" didn't feel nearly as scary as I expected - no doubt because they were safely behind glass cases. The Tarantulas exhibit runs through May 30th.
For our final dinner, we ventured to Olde City's acclaimed Israeli restaurant, Zahav. Having no experience with Israeli cuisine, I wasn't sure if I'd enjoy the meal, but it proved amazing. Between the delicious hummus, grilled fish and chicken dishes and unique desserts, we were duly impressed with chef Michael Solomonov's many creations.
We left Philadelphia energized and ready to return again this spring, hopefully in time for the Philadelphia International Festival of the Arts - a 16-day event with 60-plus dance, drama and music performances which runs from April 8 through the 23rd. Those interested in attending, can create their own three-show package; prices start at $54.
For more information about Philadelphia activities, lodging and events, go to www.visitphilly.com.
Nicole Pensiero is a South Jersey-based freelance travel writer and a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association.